Mapper since: January 18, 2020
Forced blooms will last for several days, even to two weeks if they have constant moisture and coolness (70° F. or less). If you have no outdoor garden, then discard bulbs, plants, and all when flowers fade, or when foliage is no longer useful as greenery. If you have an outdoor garden, these forced bulbs can be a nice addition to it in years to come. When the petals wither, cut off the flower stems with a sharp knife and discard them. Set the pots outdoors in a cold frame, or keep them in a cool, light place indoors, until the weather permits planting them in the garden. They may not bloom well the following season, but will thereafter. You can find useful information about plants care with PlantSpot app.
It is almost useless to try to force the same bulbs again, but the miniature daffodils (Narcissus) may be an exception to this rule. Species such as Narcissus juncifolius, N. bulbocodium citrinus and N. watieri, have done well for me when cultivated year after year in pots. Here is a seasonal schedule for them:
AUTUMN Plant bulbs and prepare to force as for regular daffodils.
WINTER After good root system forms, force slowly (6o°F. maximum). When buds show, begin feeding biweekly with applications of half-strength house plant fertilizer, continuing until early summer.
SPRING After blooms fade, continue to give good care to plants: cool temperatures (55-7o°E), sunlight, and moist soil. When danger of hard freezing is past, sink pots outdoors in garden or window box.
SUMMER Continue regular care and watering until foliage ripens and turns yellow of its own accord. Then, leave pots alone, even forgetting about them, until autumn. (They like to be baked by the warmth of summer sun.) Repot in autumn and start a new forcing cycle.
OTHER BULBS FOR FORCING
In addition to daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips, many other hardy spring-flowering bulbs do well when forced indoors. These include chionodoxa, ixia, ixiolirion, crocus, Dutch iris, Iris reticulate, grape hyacinth (Muscari), ornithogalum, pusch-kinia, sparaxis, and triteleia.